Poland's Tatras: The affordable alternative to the Alps

Breathtaking alpine scenery and budget prices make this overlooked Polish escape an alternative to Europe's overcrowded mountain regions.

I had been hiking uphill for 10 knee-jarring kilometres (6.2 miles) when I finally arrived at a two-storey mountain hut. I was ready to drop to my knees, but not from fatigue. Before me was a cathedral of snowcapped mountains enveloping the glacial lake of Morskie Oko. It was mid-April, but the water was still frozen solid, with locals and tourists alike testing their weight on its icy edges.

These are the Tatras, a rugged slice of the Carpathian Mountains along the Slovak border. With alpine scenery, spectacular cave sytems and idyllic ski villages, they are also one of Europe's most affordable hiking regions. And yet, they remain consistently overlooked in favour of the crowded and pricey Alps and Dolomites. 

We found ourselves in the Tatras to celebrate a friend's 30th birthday. Nothing less than a stunning outdoor destination would do but it had to be budget and, with 10 of us along for the party, somewhere we wouldn't have to strain our limited funds by renting a car. We decided on Zakopane, a resort town bordering Tatra National Park.

Our choice was strategic: Zakopane is the premier hub for the Tatras, offering the widest array of accommodations and proximity to bus routes leading to the major Polish trailheads. The widespread, inexpensive Bolt ride-hailing service and low-priced minibuses known as busy meant our large group could easily explore the region's woodland trails, lakes and waterfalls. The more intrepid members of our crew particularly looked forward to hiking the 2,499m (8198ft) high pyramid-shaped peak Rysy, the highest summit in Poland.

And the Polish złoty meant were able to enjoy this alpine scenery without the Alpine prices; five nights at our premium chalet, the Villa Birdhouse featuring a sauna, terrace, barbecue and five rooms, would cost 1079.50 PLN (£225; $303) per person.

Zakopane is dominated by Krupówki Street, a pedestrianised drag filled with gear shops, bars and restaurants. Over the five days, we became fond of Placki Ziemniaczane, an eatery serving "solid potato" on one side of the shop and "liquid potato" on the other (vodka).

However, most of our time was spent in the national park. We celebrated our first full day with a hike to the oval-shaped Morskie Oko, its name translating to "Eye of the Sea". After catching a thrifty Bolt to the trailhead, we hiked through deer-filled woodlands, sharing the well-marked, tarmacked trail with horse-drawn carriages carrying tourists. Along the way were scenic alpine bars, where we stopped for coffee to fuel us for the final push to our destination.

As we admired the wintry scene of imposing mountains hugging the frozen lake, we heard the rush of snow shifting down and witnessed the helicopter rescue of at least three hikers. This sobering reality of hiking in the quickly warming shoulder season made us reconsider our ambitious plan of climbing Rysy later in the week.

But upon returning to the trailhead, we were delighted to see a bus waiting. Busy function like the region's public buses but only accept cash. They run between Zakopane and popular trailheads or attractions, only leaving when they're full. After the 50-minute ride back to Zakopane centre, one of my friends and I decided to try Karczma Zapiecek, a traditional Polish Highlander restaurant where carvings and sleds hang from the ceiling. Waiters in traditional Polish dress filtered between rough-hewn wooden tables. I ordered two starters: pierogies filled with oscypek (smoked sheep's milk cheese), and potato cakes topped with mushroom sauce.

Upon taking my order, the waiter asked if I was sure. As soon as the enormous portions arrived, I understood why.

Three days into our trip, with more snow shifts on the mountains, we continuously checked local avalanche reports to plan our next move. Our group still hoped to tackle Giewont, but the 12km (7.4 miles) hike would require chains for the summit section, and some of us weren't feeling confident.

We decided to take a 15-minute bus to the Kuźnice trailhead, where we would all walk together until the fork in the path. Some of us would head off for a calmer hike to Dolina Strążyska valley. The others would go on to Giewont.

From Dolina Strążyska, it's a beautiful 400m (0.2 mile) walk to Wodospad Siklawica, the second-highest waterfall in the Polish Tatras. Shrouded in mist, the woodland feels otherworldly with the trickle of the Strążyski Potok River and snowmelt. Unlike our approach to Morskie Oko, the terrain was decidedly icier, so microspikes were essential. The Tatras are bear country, but deer, lynx, and other animals also roam free through the trails. More than once, our group spotted concerningly large paw prints in the snow.

As for our adventurous friends who had persisted towards Giewont, our reunion was earlier than expected. With low visibility, the sight of bear tracks and deep snow, they'd decided to turn around after just a couple of hours. Our birthday honouree later remarked, "I didn't think I was going to make 30".

Relaxation – and birthday celebrations – were certainly in order for our final full day. A 30-minute bus ride brought us to Chochołowskie Termy, the largest thermal bath complex in Poland. The Tatras, teeming with natural springs, are also home to a healthy thermal spa culture. We made a beeline for Chochołowskie Termy's steamy pools, strapping on wristbands to track how many drinks we would order from the outdoor beach-style pool bar. Soaking in the saunas, salt rooms and rapids proved to be the perfect antidote to five long days in the mountains. 

More like this:

• Walking on water in Slovakia

• Europe's 'underdog leader' in slow-travel biking

• An 'Uber of the Alps': The Swiss ski resort reinventing winter

Three hours later, our muscles were so pampered, we could barely walk. Luckily, in the Tatras, you never have to look far to find a friendly busy driver, ready to transport you to a mountain of cheese dumplings and yet another pint.

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