Bakery 'too successful' to stay at Borough Market

Bread Ahead started as a small market stall selling two types of sourdough, a brownie and some biscuits.

Some Mondays it would sell only 20 loaves, according to founder Matthew Jones.

Thirteen years later, the business has expanded to several sites across the world, with a new bakery opening soon in New York.

But customers visiting the original stall at Borough Market near London Bridge for its doughnuts may soon be disappointed.

Jones says he's been told that Bread Ahead is "too successful" and its global growth means that Borough Market will not renew the lease.

A spokesperson for the market said the renewal process was applied "fairly and consistently" so the site could remain a place where "independent businesses can thrive".

Jones said he first made a batch of doughnuts at his Borough Market bakery in 2013 and sold out within minutes.

He said: "They just worked. We made 60 and then we made 100 and then we made 200 and it just didn't stop."

During the Covid-19 pandemic, online baking workshops helped raise the bakery's profile.

Doughnuts helped turn Bread Ahead into a global brand.

In 2022, it opened the first international bakery and school in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.

Another followed in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, a few months later.

There are now 12 franchised stores across Saudi Arabia and the UAE and Jones believes that expansion has counted against the business in its lease negotiations with Borough Market.

The charitable trust that runs the market has told him his lease will not be renewed.

Jones said they were never made aware that the global expansion was an issue and "suddenly it's a problem".

"But that's no way to communicate with a business that employs hundreds of people.

"The whole idea of being in business is to be successful."

A Borough Market spokesperson said: "Our relationships with traders are really important to us, whether they're actively trading or as part of our alumni of success stories.

"No matter how long businesses are with us for, we value their contribution to making Borough Market what it is."

The trust said it had been in communication with Bread Ahead but could not disclose details of the lease agreement because it was confidential.

It added: "Decisions around lease renewals are made through a formal process.

"Our approach is to apply these processes fairly and consistently, while ensuring Borough Market continues to evolve as one of London's leading food destinations where independent businesses can thrive."

This is the latest tenancy dispute at the market.

Maria's Market Café has also started a campaign to stay trading after being told in July that the lease would not be renewed.

Jones says the decision to end the lease would have far-reaching consequences for the business, its staff and the local area.

"Multi-millions of turnover, 83 jobs, a devastated community around us and a gaping hole in the market. I think the decision-making is terrible," he said.

As the dispute continues, Jones is opening a new bakery in Harpenden, Hertfordshire, which he said would be the flagship location for a new owner-operated business model.

He said he hoped to help independent bakers build and own their own businesses using the knowledge and experience he has gained.

"I had three jobs when I was 15 years old. I'm not going to stop now.

"So if anything this is just a road bump. But it's one I would rather avoid," he said.

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