Lost in the Desert
Teresa Muir
My sister Catherine, who lives and works in Oman invited me over for a holiday last year so I went in February as that is the coolest time of the year there. Unknown to me and much to my delight, Catherine had arranged an overnight trip into the desert.
We were well equipped and had an experienced guide who knew the Empty Quarters like the back of his hand. There were seven of us and a dog belonging to Lewis, the guide. We drove in a convoy of three four wheeled drives. After travelling most of the day amid the most amazing scenery and with huge sand dunes that looked as if they would go on forever, we passed a small Bedouin camp where there were a few children running about and where there was washing hanging up to dry on a stretch of rope between two poles. We also saw a number of huge camels; some were hobbled and others were in a very flimsy looking canal.
After another two hours drive we arrived at a large hollow and set up our own camp. Lewis, our guide, started a fire from wood he had brought with him. This was our barbeque on which we would cook our meal later in the evening. Once the tents were set up we gathered round the (by now) glowing fire. Everyone had brought their own food so a large iron rack was placed over the fire and the barbeque began. Whilst waiting for the food to cook I noticed some large black beetles which scurried along the sand and straight into the fire. They did not seem to be able to resist the bright flames. After a grand feast we retired for the night. It was about 10 pm and the night sky was like a jewellers black velvet cloth on which a handful of diamonds had been strewn. It was unbelievably beautiful. I shall never ever forget that night sky it was truly magical.
Catherine was wakened with the cold so we both put on our extra fleeces and sat at the opening of the tent just gazing at the stars. They were just so big and bright you felt you could just reach up and pluck one from the sky. We cosied down again and did not wake till early next morning.
Once dressed I gathered up my small spade and toilet roll and set off for my morning ablutions. I walked some distance from the camp, regularly checking my bearings and to make sure I had my privacy. Once I was sure of this I did what I came to do. Then making my way back I must have taken a wrong turn because after walking some distance and not coming into view of the camp site I realised I was lost. I was not too worried as I knew I had not gone too far. I climbed to the top of the nearest dune but could see no sign of the camp. I went on for some time then I saw a blue shape in the desert. As one of our tents was blue I made my way towards it only to find it was a large tarpaulin sheet, probably left behind from a previous Bedouin camp. Yes, even in the desert there is litter. On I walked, my heart beating in my chest and tears not far away. I was terrified by this time. Why did she not just retrace her steps, I hear you say but the desert we were in was called a fog desert and the dunes were very fine with just a light dusting of soft sand on top so I had left very little prints behind me and most of the time, unknown to me, I had been going round in ever increasing circles. By this time, I had a vision of some Omanies on camels finding my bleached bones some years later. Yes, I do have a vivid imagination. On I went again and by this time the sun was beating down and I was getting very hot and thirsty and very hoarse from shouting. Then I came across a piece of glass more litter in the sand. I picked it up and angled it at the sun hoping some of my fellow campers would see it and realise I was lost. I travelled on for some time, always climbing to the top of a sand dune, hoping to spy the camp. Eventually, to my relief, away in the distance I saw the loaded roof rack of one of our four wheel jeeps. I made my way towards the camp, happy as a sand boy.
I was met by Catherine, looking a bit anxious I think it was my outstretched arms and the tears that did it. Where have you been, I was getting a bit concerned, she said. If you dont hurry up you will miss breakfast. To which I answered, I have been lost for what seemed like hours. Oh we knew you were okay, we could see you. In fact one of the women had commented your sister seems to be really enjoying her morning constitutional, she keeps popping up at the top of a dune like a little gopher, Catherine replied. Oh, if only she had known. Because of the layout in the desert, they could all see me but I couldnt see them.
After I told my story everyone scurried about to provide me with a healthy breakfast and a cup of strong tea.
We packed up the last of our things and set off towards the coast. That was another awe inspiring moment as we drove between two huge sand dunes and arrived at the Arabian Sea. We unloaded our deck chairs and sat with our toes in the sea sipping coffee and scoffing the last of the food. Certainly a day I would never forget.
